Oud, one of the most ancient and costly elements in perfumery, has held a significant place in Southeast Asian traditions for centuries, often featured in rituals and celebrations. Historical records indicate the utilization of oud as early as the 3rd century BC in regions such as China and Vietnam, where it was recognized for its unique, aromatic woodsy scent used in incense.

In contemporary times, this resinous substance, also known as agarwood and sourced from the Aquilaria tree, has become synonymous with the Middle Eastern luxury market. Its high demand stems from its rarity, as only 2% of Aquilaria trees produce this sought-after material. “Oud is often referred to as liquid gold,” states Jonnie Swarbrick, the creative director of the niche fragrance company Fragrance Du Bois. He explains, “The resin materializes only when the trees are infected by an insect or fungus, leading to the release of its complex fragrance.”“

While there are dedicated oud farms that intentionally infect the trees to stimulate resin production, this method often results in a product considered inferior to naturally harvested oud, with older trees, typically over 40 years, yielding the best quality.

Currently, the primary sources of oud are Laos, Cambodia, Vietnam, Malaysia, and Thailand. Renowned perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin, who crafts fragrances for top brands like Lancôme, Jo Malone, and Giorgio Armani, emphasizes that “the strength and fragrance of oud vary by its origin; for instance, Indian oud is recognized for its earthy and robust aroma.” Assam oud, considered among the most prized, can fetch around £75,000 per kilogram from elite producers.

Oud fragrances started to gain popularity in Western countries during the 2000s. Data indicates that there were merely 46 global oud fragrance releases in 2009, a figure that surged to 397 by 2019.

Traditionally, this fragrance has been divisive, with some perceiving it as intense and overwhelming—qualities that can indeed hold true. Pellegrin notes, “Due to its potent olfactory profile and intricate nature, oud can be challenging to balance.” However, thanks to innovative formulations and shifting fragrance trends, oud is experiencing a renaissance.

“We’ve certainly witnessed an increase in the demand for oud beyond its traditional Middle Eastern stronghold,” confirms Swarbrick. He notes that Western consumers are increasingly drawn to richer, multifaceted scents. A modern interpretation of oud, he states, can “honor its classic profile while infusing contemporary elements to enhance its versatility.”

Julien Sprecher of luxury fragrance brand Parfums de Marly remarks, “Oud serves as a foundation in a perfume composition, supporting everything from the opening notes to the base. It acts as a structural element, but in modern formulations, it should be carefully balanced to avoid overshadowing other components.” Today’s oud fragrances exemplify this philosophy by integrating the woody notes with bright citrus or floral elements, resulting in perfumes that are lighter and more refreshing—making them worth a try for anyone who may have previously dismissed oud scents.

Modern Perfumers Crafting Luxurious Oud Fragrances

Dior La Collection Privée Oud Ispahan

Last revamped by fragrance maestro Francis Kurkdjian, Oud Ispahan from Dior melds the resin with a lush dose of Damascus roses, creating a rich and exquisite scent. This fragrance is both powerful and sophisticated.

Fragrance Du Bois Oud Jaune Intense EDP

Fragrance Du Bois crafts an array of oud fragrances that cater to diverse markets while staying true to the ingredient’s authenticity. Oud Jaune Intense is particularly appealing for newcomers, opening with notes of ylang-ylang, floral monoi, and a touch of pineapple—creating a luminous interpretation of oud.

Lancôme Absolue Les Parfums Oud Bouquet

From Lancôme’s luxurious line, Oud Bouquet was conceived by Pellegrin to embody the meeting of Eastern and Western fragrance traditions. By combining oud with the renowned Centifolia rose from Grasse, this composition achieves a harmonious balance, enriched with hints of praline and saffron.

Jo Malone London Oud & Bergamot Cologne Intense

Global fragrance head Celine Roux notes the scarcity of oud fragrances outside of the Middle East a decade ago. Jo Malone London sought to create a fragrance that honors oud’s essence while celebrating its cultural roots, resulting in a composition that balances depth with uplifting citrus notes.

Parfums de Marly Haltane EDP

Sprecher expresses his admiration for the elegance that oud brings to fragrances. In Haltane, he introduces freshness with herbal top notes and a gourmand twist via praline, creating a harmonious interplay that accentuates oud’s warm, ambery notes.