Located approximately 20 kilometers north of Copenhagen, I find myself sprawled on a yoga mat, immersed in a tranquil atmosphere filled with the sound of guided, deliberate breaths. Strangely, rather than feeling relaxed, I grapple with a profound sense of discomfort; emotions such as rage, sorrow, and a hint of anxiety flood through me.

My destination is Kurhotel Skodsborg, a former seaside sanatorium, where I am participating in their newly launched hot and cold Nordisk Retreat. Despite being merely an hour away from the airport, I am unexpectedly close to tears while attempting a stretch meant to alleviate my tight hip flexors.

“We store a lot of emotions in our glutes and hips,” explains Tamara Harnett, the British health and performance coach leading the retreat’s restorative movement and breath workshops. She encourages me to deepen my pose with an emphatic eight-count exhale.

What follows is an overwhelming wave of anger that transforms into relief as tension melts away, ushering me into the state of calm I had been yearning for throughout the weekend.

It’s evident that this experience will be anything but a typical spa getaway. The Nordisk retreat challenges participants with fundamental questions regarding breath. Do you believe you can breathe correctly? More importantly, are you utilizing this essential function effectively beyond mere survival?

Under the guidance of Richie Norton, a professional rugby player turned breathwork advocate, the retreat is a two-day exploration that blends Kurhotel’s renowned sauna treatments with immersive breathwork instruction. The hotel boasts a vast spa featuring 16 types of state-of-the-art relaxation rooms, including steam rooms, a salt cave, and infrared chairs.

This retreat is ideal for individuals new to breathwork. Over four one-hour sessions, held twice daily, participants will learn how breathe work can empower them to face challenges, increase resilience, and foster relaxation, all through a practical lens.

Norton’s session is framed as strength training, taking place in a lap pool rather than a conventional gym setting. However, it’s far from a typical water aerobics class. We focus on breath-holding exercises while swimming with hand weights beneath the water (an exhausting yet rewarding experience). Following this, Harnett leads yoga and restorative movement sessions that emphasize breathing techniques for effective stretching and stress release.

Between sessions, we are treated to sauna experiences led by Kurhotel experts known as gusmesters. A highlight is the steam ritual; in a warm, mist-filled environment around 45°C, we’re gently elevated through birch leaves and eucalyptus, followed by aromatic scrubs infused with sugar, coconut oil, lavender oil, and aloe vera, all absorbed through the steam.

The SaunaGus is a unique experience. In the revered wooden saunas of Denmark, each gusmester is an artist. One such master, Bo, creates aromatic steam by melting scented ice chips over the coals, generating hot waves of air for us to enjoy over a 12-minute session. It’s an intense experience, leading to an invigorating plunge in the outdoor pool, where I swim for just 10 seconds in icy 8°C water before retreating inside for warmth and herbal tea.

While it would have been ideal to take a dip in the sea from the hotel’s private pontoon, weather warnings during our visit restricted access. Fortunately, the 96-room property offered plenty of alternatives. Ample breaks between workshops allow for fitness classes (I opted for a session of reformer Pilates), cozying up with hot chocolate by the fireplace, indulging in spa treatments, or enjoying nature trails in Dyrehaven reserve.

The hotel boasts a history of 125 years, and while some elements may feel slightly dated, the simplicity is refreshing when seeking to clear one’s mind and ease stress. The accommodations are particularly comfortable, with spacious rooms featuring sea views, bathtubs, and plush beds. The service is commendable; a concierge went above and beyond to recover a lost bracelet, successfully locating it after it had already been sent for laundry.

The culinary offerings surpassed expectations. Initially skeptical about the “sleep-optimized” dinner, I found the beetroot starter and cod main course to be delightful, supplemented by an abundance of bread and wine. I opted for local sparkling tea, ensuring a restful sleep — likely aided by the extensive mobility work I had completed.

Details: Doubles at Kurhotel Skodsborg start at DKK 2,045 (approximately £236) for bed and breakfast, including access to the spa and fitness amenities. The next retreat, scheduled for autumn 2025, will begin at £496, incorporating overnight accommodation.