The Olive Oil Luxury Movement

Overlooking the lush, rolling hills of southern Tuscany is Mount Amiata, a 5,702ft-tall dormant lava dome formed by the gradual release of lava from within the Earth’s crust. While its volcanic activity may have ceased, the geological features remain, evident in the thermal springs at Bagni San Filippo, Bagno Vignoni, and San Casciano dei Bagni. As hikers and cyclists navigate the trails up the mountain, they wind through picturesque groves filled with beech, chestnut, and olive trees, thriving thanks to the fertile volcanic soil.

This region is home to Manni Oil, established in 2000 by Armando Manni and dubbed “pure liquid gold” by wellness icon Gwyneth Paltrow. The organic, extra virgin olive oil is offered in a Grand Cru variety (priced at £61 for a two-bottle set) and has garnered favor among culinary experts like Gordon Ramsay, Thomas Keller, and Hélène Darroze, who collectively hold over 30 Michelin stars. Much like wine, olive oil possesses varying qualities, referred to as crus, with this term typically reserved for wine, yet used here to denote high-quality, limited-edition oils. “Manni oils are a staple in our kitchen,” says Keller, renowned chef-owner of The French Laundry and Per Se. The company’s mid-tier offering, The Oil of Life (starting at £46), has also earned numerous accolades.

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“Our oil boasts a remarkably high concentration of antioxidant polyphenols, providing a vibrant flavor and an extended shelf life,” explains Armando Manni. This luxurious oil is produced at a pioneering olive mill that emphasizes zero waste and a circular economy approach, ensuring all materials are utilized optimally. Recently, Manni Oil has unveiled a new product utilizing leftover olive pulp from the pressing process to create a flour rich in antioxidants, suitable for inclusion in both human and pet diets. To support the health claims regarding its products, Manni’s oils undergo regular testing at the University of Florence.

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Research has identified that the polyphenols in olive oils—powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agents—offer various health benefits, including protection against coronary heart disease and atherosclerosis. However, these beneficial compounds can diminish as olive oils age, particularly when exposed to light and high temperatures. “If not stored correctly, an extra virgin olive oil can lose all its antioxidants and revert to a simpler virgin olive oil in just a few months,” Manni notes. Manni Oil’s unique production methods—featuring the only patented circular economy mill globally—allow their oils to maintain their exceptional quality for a minimum of two years after bottling.

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Enhanced health benefits are but one reason for the premium pricing of certain olive oils. Taste also plays a crucial role, leading to the emergence of olive oil sommeliers. Mazen Assaf, known as the Olive Oil Guy, has turned his passion for olive oil into a flourishing brand. In addition to judging at international olive oil contests and teaching classes at Le Cordon Bleu, he curates a selection of oils sold through high-end retailers including Harrods in London.

His interest in olive oil began during a childhood trip to Portugal with his father. Though Assaf grew up in Lebanon, a nation famous for its olive oils, his experience in Portugal revealed the region’s distinct flavors. “I realized that olive oil is a craft with many varieties, each offering a unique flavor profile. This insight ignited my passion,” Assaf shared. “Since that trip, I have dedicated myself to uncovering the complexities of olive oil, promoting its recognition as a culinary art form.”

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Assaf delves into the multitude of flavor notes present in olive oils, while also identifying ideal food pairings. With over a thousand olive varieties around the globe—139 of which account for 85 percent of oil production—each offers distinct tasting characteristics. “The reality is that quality olive oils feature a vast array of flavors that cater to diverse palates,” Assaf explained, noting his current Sommelier’s Selection highlights various olives including the Spanish Picual, known for its tomato-like notes perfect for stews, the peppery Coratina from Puglia suited for salads, and the fragrant Lebanese Souriani, ideal for hummus.

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The Olive Oil Guy sources from family-owned micro-farms with generations of olive oil production experience. “This approach supports families across Greece, Italy, and Spain in maintaining their traditions and craftsmanship,” Assaf explains. “Our fair trade and open sourcing methods significantly impact an industry often plagued by fraud and unethical practices.”

Ultimately, luxury olive oil transcends its role in cooking; it is also a sensory experience. Since 2007, Speiron’s λ /lambda/ olive oil has emphasized ultra-premium quality, with each bottle meticulously hand-filled by founder Giorgos Kolliopoulos (minimum order €100). Sourced from ancient olive trees in the Peloponnese, the oil is derived from the Koroneiki and Maroneia varieties, areas with a rich history of olive oil production. “My family has deep roots in this region, enhancing my connection to the craft,” Kolliopoulos reflected. He mentioned, “I pursue the finest oils purely for the experience of uncorking the bottle, allowing the intricate, rich aromas to fill the room—it’s a sensation unlike any other.”

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With an expanding array of exceptional luxury olive oils available, enthusiasts can explore a broader spectrum of tastes and aromas than ever before.

Three Notable Luxury Olive Oils

El Mil de Poaig

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This organic extra virgin olive oil stems from ancient Farga olive trees in Spain’s Maestrat region near Valencia. The trees’ age results in a limited annual yield, making this oil highly exclusive. Instead of a standard glass bottle, this oil is elegantly packaged in handcrafted white porcelain. £228.

Terra Creta Grand Cru Koroneiki

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Award-winning extra virgin olive oil from Crete, known for its low acidity and mild fruity flavor, produced sustainably in harmony with nature’s rhythms. £28.

Aceites Oleomile Oldfargus 2000

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With only 400 bottles produced each year, this oil offers complex aromas of green walnuts, green apple skin, and fresh grass. Priced at €230.

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